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Astronomy Department, University of Washington
Exploration Course, Fall 2005

Cosmology & Controversy 2005 


CLASS PICTURES FROM ROME 2004     by Bruce Balick

This page contains information about the early fall course, "Cosmology and Controversy" to be taught at the U.W. Rome Center from 23 August to 17 September 2005. It also contains links to important course reading materials and practical information for U.W. students in Rome.

Cosmology, Controversy, and the Difficult Birth of Modern Science
August 22 to September 16
Program Director: Prof. Bruce Balick (Astronomy Dept., 543-7683, balick@astro.washington.edu

Every culture in history, if not every person, has pondered the Universe, our place and time in it, the origins of humanity, and whether our existence is accidental or purposeful.  This is a course in astronomy, Astro 211 (with no prerequisites), that will explore the modern view of cosmology and the astronomical observations and the presumptions upon which it rests.  In addition we will explore the evolution of western ideas of cosmology through the Greek, Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance eras, with special emphasis on the schism of modern science and religion precipitated by Galileo and the shism's lasting modern repercussions.  We uncover a Universe that evolves in ways that astound us, and which raise very delicate issues about the realm and legitimacy of scientific knowledge and whether the origin of life is a awesome accident or a designed process.  Students with deep curiosity and a wide range of academic majors are especially welcome.

The course will be taught at U.W.'s Rome Center  by Bruce Balick, Professor and Chair of the U.W. Astronomy Department, with participation by scientists from Pisa, Florence, and the Vatican Observatory.  Activities include a historical tour of Rome, visits to Pisa and Florence to trace Galileo's life and major events, and an excursion to the Vatican Observatory at Castel Gondolfo.  A webpage describing last year's course provides useful information.

Our course, of course (Nostro corso, d'accordo)

Course Reading

    The readings below are required unless indicated otherwise. (*) means copies are available from the instructor.
  • Any recent Astronomy 101-level text (will be supplied for sharing at no cost)
  • "Galileo: A Life" James L. Reston Jr. Hardcover: ASIN: 006016378X; Paperback ISBN: 189312262X (under $20). The book is out of print; however the paperback is available from the U. Bookstore (textbook section) or as a used book at alibris.com
  • "The Galileo Affair", Owen Gingerich, Scientific American, August 1982 (article, 10 pages) (*)
  • "The Church's Most Recent Attempt to Dispel the Gaileo Myth", George V. Coyne (essay, 24 pages, available below as pdf file)
  • "Science and the Human Prospect", Ronald C. Pine, Chapters 1,2,4,5,6, available below as pdf files
  • Selections from "Science and Theology, Ruminations on the Cosmos" Ed. Chris Impey and Catherine Petry (*)
    • "The Sacred Cows of Science and Religion Meet", George V. Coyne, pp. 19-34 (*)
    • "Dare a Scientist Believe in Design?" Owen Gingerich, pp. 35-56 (*)
  • "National Geographic Traveller Rome" ISBN: 0-7922-7566-7 (2002 or later Edition), $23 at U. Bookstore. This is a great and very visual guide for people who intend to stay in Rome for a while rather than zip from site to site in a few days. Strongly Recommended
  • Our ever thoughtful U.W. librarians have suggested a list of light but informative readings for people on their way to Rome. Let me add my personal favorite, "The Agony and the Ecstasy" by Irving Stone, a vivid semi-fictional biography of Michelangelo set in Rome and Florence at the zenith of their Renaissance glory. The U Bookstore and many other bookstores should have copies. Strongly Recommended

Downloads

The rest of this page is intended to informally supplement, complement, and summarize information that you have received from authoritative U.W. sources, FIUTS (Foundation for International Understanding Through Students) and the U.W. Rome Center, our gracious host in Italy. Their official information takes precedence over anything on this web page!!

One of the most complete and informative documents for U.W. students studying abroad is the "Study Abroad Handbook" developed by FUITS. They've has seen it all. Their handbook should be your bible of information. If you don't have a copy then contact FUITS or go to HUB 302B.

The Rome Center maintains an extensive web page with useful information specifically for students studying in Rome at depts.washington.edu/roma/study/. Pay particular information to their advice on obtaining your mandatory student visa. Also note that there are work-study opportunities. Be sure to print and take their booklet Preparatory Information for Students. Questions about the facilities can be addressed to the local Director of the Rome Center, Jennifer Wilkin (wilkin@u.washington.edu).

The Exploration Series is an inititative of the U.W. College of Arts & Sciences. They sponsor information sessions on all Exploration courses on Tuesdays at 11:30 and Fridays at 2:30 in C-101 Padelford. See their web page for registration, cost, financial aid, course credit, health insurance, and disability accommodation information or contact them at explore@u.washington.edu.

Questions about the course content and schedule should be addressed to me, Bruce Balick, at balick@astro.washington.edu.

Paperwork: all of the whats, whens, and wheres! Don't wait for the last minute to get started. If you need a passport or to want to change an existing one, see how to apply and Passport/Seattle Office. Gather the paperwork and make an appointment.

    
The U.W. Rome Center is located in the Palazzo Pio at the east end of Campo dei Fiori (campus of flowers).

Rome: the crossroads of Western histories

    Western history keeps circling back to and through Rome. Its roots are our Western roots. Rome is a wedding cake of history, layer upon layer, that shares the same site on the Tiber as a modern city -- a bustling city that almost seems like a interloper in its own turf.
  • the old chestnut that Rome wasn't built in a day is right. The city can't be explored in a day either.
  • one of our first activities will be a professionally guided tour of Rome. We plan additional informal evening excursions to various districts of the city to discover what lies beneath its surface.
  • no web site or guide book can get its arms around all of this voluptuous, tumultuous, gregarious city. However, an amusing, somewhat irreverent place to start is www.geocities.com/Paris/Arc/5319/roma.htm#inx (this link skips past the antipolitical stuff at the top of the page).
  • speaking of guide books, I like the Cadogan and Nat'l Geographic guide books, but almost all are useful. (The Cadogan has wonderful historical depth, though I take exception to its jaded view of Rome and Romans today.) The ultimate authority is "The Blue Book" for black-belt tourists. Wide World (Wallingford) and UW Bookstore are good sources.
  • Some musea are open in the evenings and Sunday. Monday closings are not unusual. Ticket booths may not have enough change.

Transportation

  • Student airfares are available from travel agents such as Council and STA on the Ave. They can issue student travel cards (bring a photo and UW student ID).
  • August is peak travel time so book your flight as soon as you can.
  • Italy is served by two major international airports: Rome's "Leonardo da Vinci Airport", also called "Fiumicino" (abbreviated "FCO") as it is located in the town of Fiumicino. If you are arriving from another European destination, you may arrive at Rome's other airport, Ciampino. Ciampino is used by some smaller airlines, such as RyanAir and EasyJet.
  • airlines occasionally lose luggage for a few days. Come prepared for 3 days without your bags.
  • there are ATMs ("Bancomats") in airports, train stations, banks, and many other places where you can get Euros. Most U.S. debit cards work in 2/3 of the ATMs in Italy.
  • ATM fees are higher than in the U.S. Even so, they are a far better way to get cash than the money exchange booths.
  • Long distance train travel between major cities is easiest on "Eurostar"-class trains. These ultrafast trains are super fast and cost a bit more than other trains. Tickets are good only for a specific train on the date of travel when issued, just like a plane ticket.
  • Tickets for other trains (e.g., intercity, diretto, rapido in order of speed) are sold undated. They can be used any time, but if you want a reserved seat then you must request it separately. You **must** date-stamp your ticket BEFORE entering the train using yellow machines near the tracks. The conductor can issue a large fine if you board a train without a dated ticket.
  • Rome has an extensive system of subways and busses. Buy tickets/tokens for busses at tobacco ("tabacchi") shops, train stations, and some newsstands. Tickets for the bus or metro cost 1 euro each. They need to be validated on the bus. You may not buy Rome bus tickets on the bus. If a fare-inspector finds you traveling on the bus without a ticket, you will receive a 101-euro fine -- on the spot.
Getting to the Rome Center
  • Trains from FCO to Rome leave about every half hour. One of these is an express train to Rome's major train station, "Termini". The other is an inexpensive local train which stops at Travestevere. Travestevere is much nearer to the U.W. Rome Center than Termini.
  • The train terminal in FCO is located adjacent to parking lot C, across the street in front of Terminal C.
     

     
  • For more information on getting from the Fiumicino airport to the UW Rome Center, see the instructions at the UW Rome Center website.
  • the UW Rome Center is your first destination in Italy unless you overnight in a hotel. It is located on the Campo dei Fiori ("field of flowers") near the Tiber River ("Fiume Tevere") in one of the best locations for exploring and enjoying the major sites inside the old city walls and the Vatican. It's a short walk to the lovely Piazza Navona and the Pantheon.
  • if you need to overnight in Rome, here's a list of inexpensive places to stay (thanks to the Rome Center). Albergo (Hotel) del Sole and Albergo Lunetta are both about a block from the Rome Center.
  • The UW Rome Center is located on the third floor of the Palazzo Pio -- in Piazza del Biscione 95, 00186 Roma -- at the east end of the Campo dei Fiori. Office hours are Monday through Friday, 8:30 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. (8.30 to 17.00). August 16 is a holiday. The office phone number is 06-686-8807 (dial the entire number from everywhere in Italy) or 011-39-06-686-8807 from the U.S. Note that Rome is 9 hours ahead of (later than) Pacific time.
  • Bruce Balick will be living in the Rome Center, apartment 312. His phone number is 06-686-7645 from Italy or 011-39-06-686-7645 from the U.S.
     

     
  • speaking of cosmology and the Campo dei Fiori, in 1600 Giordanno Bruno, a renegade Dominican monk, was burned alive here before a crowd for forcefully espousing that the Sun was one of countless stars, and that our Universe was one of countless universes. (A sobering thought!). His statue is near the center of the campo. Bruno wasn't the last heretic to meet this fate at the Campo.
Apartments
  • student housing is in various apartments within 30-minute walking time of the U.W. Rome Center. Bus service is excellent.
  • apartments sizes are all different, some as small as two people, others as large as ten. Expect two and sometimes three people per bedroom. Please notify Prof. Balick of special needs immediately.
  • apartments come fully furnished including a fully equipped kitchen. Household items such as towels and sheets are supplied except for a washcloth.
  • you can pick up your keys starting on Friday August 20 during the Rome Center's business hours (8.00-17.30 Mon-Fri). If you arrive outside of business hours then arrange with your program director, Bruce Balick, to give you the keys. He will have an apartment at the Palazzo Pio.
  • the night of 16 September is the last in your apartment. Assume that check out will be Friday 17 September. Ask ASAP if you wish to stay until 20 September - no promises!
  • you can arrive in Rome earlier than 20 August or stay after 17 September at your own expense. Note that September weather in Italy is generally pleasant and most of the touriists have left for home. Note also that U.W. fall classes start Wed 29 September.
  • You may leave luggage at the Rome Center before and after your program dates. Coordinate this with the Rome Center office in advance.
Pisa, Florence, etc
  • Pisa Sept 1/2: we are planning to stay at either Hotel di Stefano or Hotel Bologna. Both are 3-star hotels.
  • Florence ("Firenza") Sept 2/3: we are planning to stay at Hotel Ginori on the night of 2 Spetember
  • Feel free to spend the weekend in Florence (at your own expense). If Hotel Ginori doesn't work for you, some alternates can be found at Lists of hotels can be found at www.firenzealbergo.it/mappa.asp and elsewhere on the web. Hotel Annabel looks like a good bargain from its web site - most rooms are doubles at 114 Euros. A friend recommends Fiorino Hotel: 3 stars, 6, Via Osteria del Guanto, Firenze, Phone 011-3955-210579 or fax ...80; doubles were 120 Euros when they stayed.
  • There are many historical places near Rome to explore at your leisure.


General Information

Documents
  • see Preparatory Information for Students and then my document checklist
  • don't forget the mandatory orientation session for students, Saturday May 15 from 10AM - 3 PM in the HUB Auditorium
  • a notary public is available at the main information counter at the HUB at specific hours (free and convenient)
  • if don't have a current passport, then be sure to get one right away! See the handouts for instructions.
  • the deadline for submitting your medical report, concurrent enrollment form, resident waiver, and visa application is June 1.
  • getting a visa takes time! Click here for the details. You original passport will be shipped to the Italian consulate in San Francisco on June 2 where it will be stamped, then returned to the IPE office and from them to you in about 30-50 days.
  • pre-departure checklist: passport (plus photocopy for emergency use), approved visa, plane ticket, driver's license, credit/debit card, books, notebooks...
  • get a belly pouch for carrying documents, money, credit cards
Safety, money & valuables
  • see Preparatory Information for Students first!
  • euros are the only currency in Italy, though you may occasionally see prices in lire.
  • ATM debit/creditcards generally work very well in most Bancomats, and the Bancomat exchange rate is better than money exchanges at banks and money exchange stores. Credit cards work well almost everywhere. But remember that card or identity theft can be a huge headache, so guard your cards.
  • violent crime is rare.
  • robberies and pickpocketing are frequent, especially in train stations, near crowded public sites, on busses used by tourists (number 64 is infamous) and on large streets. Pickpockets are pros, and many work with accomplices to distract you. People who look like tourists are magnets. (This applies to many other large cities in Italy and elsewhere!)
  • carry only the essentials and enough cash for the day (passports, credit cards, etc. should be stored in a safe place - preferably under your clothes); be mindful of your backpacks/bags, in particular the position of zippers, which can be opened, and exposed straps, which can be cut.
  • UW students at the Rome Center have not had trouble with the theft of their cameras and laptops when they guard them cautiously, particularly in public places. Keep them in your carry-on bags in planes and trains.
  • insurance for valuables is not generally available once you reach Italy. If you want insurance for valuables then get it in the U.S. before you leave. In any event, document your valuables - note serial numbers, xerox purchase receipts (or keep a record of cost), etc.
Computers, utilities & small appliances
  • the Rome Center has 11 computers in their lab, to be shared by an average of 60 students, plus a wireless service. There is a large demand for desktops, and academic work always takes priority over personal mail.
  • internet cafes with desktops are available in Rome. WiFi spots (wireless service) are rare.
  • unlike the U.S., local phone calls are charged by the minute throughout Europe, about 15 cents/min for calls to fixd phones and 30 cents per minute to mobile phones. Idle chatter can be expensive.
  • public phones are available. Most operate with Italian phone cards and some take coins as well. Long-distance phone cards can also be used on public phones (buy at tabacchi shops, train stations, and elsewhere).
  • many U.S. cell phones are not compatible with European systems. Cell phone rentals are easy to find. If your phone is compatible, you can buy prepaid cards in Italy for local calls. Cell phone rentals are also possible.
  • the water is perfectly safe to drink, but it can be heavily chlorinated.
  • electricity is 220V (not 110V) and 50-cycle (not 60 cycle), so hair dryers, electric shavers, etc with built-in 110/220V switches are useful. You can buy a 220-110V transformer at any large hardware or drug store in the U.S. for under $50 or simply buy new small appliances in Italy.
  • even if your appliance or laptop runs on 220V, U.S. plugs will not fit into Italian sockets. You need a small adapter designed particularly for southern Europe ($3 in the U.S.).
  • Romans party until quite late, and noisy garbage trucks arrive early every morning. Consider bringing several pairs of earplugs.
  • European batteries are identical to those in the U.S. but more expensive.
Cultural Information
  • My wife and I revere Italy despite its little challenges and adventures. We love its food, its culture, its landscapes, its deep soul, and its vast collection of historical treasures, and most of all its cheerful and kind people.
  • see Preparatory Information for Students first!
  • Italians are very social and love to have fun. Figure it out and get in the swing! Learn to enjoy some of the cultural differences.
  • Italians are generally cheerful and helpful, though they aren't always fast to show it in tourist-inundated areas. On the other hand, customer satisfaction means very little in some larger stores and banks.
  • Italians dress fashionably. Dress is informal but never sloppy. (See also below)
  • a little Italian goes a long, long way. The gesture of trying to communicate verbally is deeply appreciated. English is widely spoken among people under 30.
  • coffee (caffe`) and meals are esteemed. Food is fresh and tasty. Avoid restaurants with lots of non-discerning tourists.
  • Italians eat in "Ristoranti" (elegant & pricey), Trattorie (less formal), Osterie (informal), and Pizzerie (very informal).
  • normally lunch (collazione) is the big meal (several courses), and dinners (pranzo) are late and lighter. Small stores close from noon - 4 P.M.
  • no one would ever think to serve tap water to you (out of respect). Everyone uses bottled water. Ice cubes and refrigerated drinks are rare.
  • all eat-in restaurants charge a cover ("coperto") for plates, silverware, and bread. Water is extra. Tips are typically 5% (e.g., 2 or 3 Eu for a 50 Eu dinner).
  • sports: soccer ("football") and basketball are national obsessions. Driving in Italy is a also very competitive sport best left to taxi drivers.
Practical Information
  • bring as little as possible. Buy shampoo, tampons, film, etc. in Italy. Save some luggage space for purchases to bring home, or bring an empty backpack or strong nylon bag.
  • bring shoes that will be comfortable on cobblestones and long city walks. Note: white athletic shoes and shorts may be comfortable; however, Italians (of all ages) don't wear them. See Dress tips for Italy if you're concerned.
  • you cannot enter many churches and cultural sites in shorts or sleeveless shirts.
  • the Pope will be in residence at Castel Gondolfo when we plan to visit there, so nice attire will be required for entry (not ties or dresses)
  • most stores are small and family operated. Many feature the work of true artisans. Larger stores can be found in Rome and elsewhere, usually near the outskirts of town.
  • get a good map and mark shops and places of interest. They can be difficult to rediscover.
  • traditional business hours are mornings and evenings with a 3-hour midday break from 1 to 4 PM. Most stores close Saturday afternoon and Sunday except where there are tourists.
  • a small room fan ("ventilator") is a very useful purchase for summer sleeping and drying clothes! (Very few buildings are air conditioned.)
  • expect occasional afternoon rain and frequent warm and humid evenings.
  • few windows have screens, so opening windows at night is an invitation to mosquitos if you live near still water. Come prepared.
Medical care & insurance
  • see Preparatory Information for Students and other handouts. Read the UW handouts and do what they recommend. They're written for your benefit by experts.
  • check your home policy - you may be covered abroad. Note that various types of medical insturance coverage are available through UW, including emergency flights to the U.S. for care (Note - Italian medical facilities are excellent.)
  • the UW Travel Office recommends that your normal shots be up to date, and that you get innoculations for hepatitis A and B.
  • student innoculation records are available from your doctor and at Hall Health. Affiliates of the UW Medical Center can get their innoculation record at Campus Health, NN256A in the Medical Center.
  • expect that the Rome Center will help with all unexpected medical problems as best they can.
  • aspirin, ibuprofen, allergy control medicines, etc. are MUCH cheaper in the U.S. They're light, so pack a modest supply. (Note: pills might cuase hassles at customs, esp. in the U.S.)
  • the offical visa paperwork requires that you produce proof of medical isntuance. Melissa Williams of UW's IPE office has written this claification:
    In terms of the health insurance, the UW Rome Center purchases an Italian national insurance plan for you that satisfies the visa application's requirement of health insurance. You do not need to worry about submitting proof of this; we will take care of it for you in your enrollment letter. Please note, however, that this insurance plan does not take the place of major medical coverage. You will still want to make sure that you have health insurance coverage during the period that you spend abroad.
Do's & Don'ts
  • A study abroad experience should be just that: an incredible opportunity to explore other cultures. DO immerse yourself, DO anticipate that cultures are different and try to turn difficulty into opportunity, DON'T spend all of your time with other U.W. students.
  • Stay true to yourself. DO keep a keen commitment to your core values. DON'T bend to social pressures to start taking drugs or to engage in acts that you judge to be disrespectful, dubious, or illegal.
  • Binge drinking, illegal activities, even renting a car, are huge DON'Ts. (You are likely to be expelled and sent home if caught.)
  • DO know the laws abroad. DON'T presume that U.W. will supply legal representation if you get into serious trouble.